a.k.a.: German carp, Chinese carp

Waters:Native to Asia but now harvested in freshwaters and fish farms worldwide.

Description (in water): Most weigh under 10 lbs. but can range from 3 to 50 lbs. Carp have large scales; their dark gray backs fade into paler sides and pearly bellies.

Description (in market): Carp meat is off-white in color, with a dark midlateral strip that's often removed before cooking. It is low in fat, firm in texture, and mild--though it can be muddy, especially the farm-raised variety--in flavor. The skin is edible but not particularly tasty.

Sold as: Whole fish (most common), fillets, steaks. Often sold live, kept in tanks.

Best cooking: It's a good idea to remove the midlateral strip of darker flesh before cooking--it can infuse the meat with a strong, musky flavor. Carp bakes, fries, and poaches nicely. It is also the main ingredient in the Jewish dish "gefilte fish," and is popular in Chinese cuisine.

Buying tips: You may choose from live carp in tanks at the fish market; choose out of tanks that are not overcrowded--the fish should have room to keep active and healthy. It is not always easy to scale this fish, so ask the fishmonger to do it for you.

Substitutes: Striped bass, blackfish, catfish, cod, grouper, monkfish

Notes: The mossy, earthy flavor sometimes evident in carp tends to be stronger in the warmer months; carp harvested from November to April will have less of a river-bottom taste.