a.k.a.: Arctic char, alpine trout, salmon trout

Waters:Icy-cold fresh and saltwaters of North America and Europe. Almost all store-bought char are farm-raised.

Description (in water): The saltwater variety have metallic blue or green backs, yellowish sides, and are patterned with small spots. The freshwater variety are multi-hued, silvery, and similarly spotted. Market-bound specimens usually weigh from 3 to 4 lbs.

Description (in market): Flesh color ranges from white to orange-pink to deep red. The flavor is strong and has been described as a cross between salmon and trout (char is related to both); texture ranges from flaky to firm.

Sold as: Whole fish, fillets

Best cooking: Prepare it as you would salmon, which is versatile and responds well to baking, broiling, frying, grilling, poaching, and steaming. Whole fish can be stuffed prior to baking.

Buying tips: Whole fish should look alive, with skin that is shiny and bright. Make sure your fish has not been sitting too long in the market; smell for freshness. Since most char is farm-raised, fillets are usually of excellent quality, although one should always check for bruises and browning.

Substitutes: Salmon, trout