a.k.a.: Atlantic, black, white, yellowfin, and spotfin croaker (species names); golden croaker (market name); hardhead, blackmouth, drum, jewfish

Waters:Atlantic, Pacific, and Gulf coasts

Description (in water): The smallest members of the drum family, croakers range from 1/2 lb. to 3 lbs. They are usually silvery in color; spotfin has a pale steel-blue cast and a characteristic black spot under the pectoral fin, while yellowfin has grayish-green sides with dark wavy lines and yellow scales.

Description (in market): Lean white meat that's tender and full-flavored. The skin is edible.

Sold as: Whole, beheaded (most common); steaks, fillets

Best cooking: A popular pan fish, croaker is often breaded or dusted with cornmeal or flour and pan-fried. It can also be marinated and sautéed, roasted, broiled, or grilled.

Buying tips: Look for unbruised, alive-looking fish with bright red gills and shimmery skin. Croakers should be kept packed in ice and have a sweet, fresh smell.

Substitutes: Butterfish, porgy, mullet, spot, weakfish, whiting

Notes: Fish of the drum family are named for the drumming, croaklike sound they make by contracting a bladder muscle; sometimes you can even hear their murmuring from the shore. They tend to make these sounds most often during breeding season.