a.k.a.: Spiny dogfish, lesser-spotted dogfish, spur dog, smooth hound, rough hound, nursehound, sand shark, nurse shark, grayfish, rock salmon, rock cod, huss, tope

Waters:Pacific, Atlantic, and Mediterranean coasts

Description (in water): There are many varieties of this small species of shark. The average dogfish is long and thin and weighs about 25 lbs. The lesser-spotted dogfish is light brown with darker spots on the back and sides. The smooth hound has a gray back and pale, pearly sides.

Description (in market): The lean, firm-textured white meat of dogfish is mild to moderate in flavor. Although this fish is a species of shark, you'll find it has little in common with mako; rather, fillets look and taste similar to cod (hence the name "rock cod"), though they are rather more firm in texture.

Sold as: Skinless fillets, up to 1 lb.; smoked

Best cooking: Dogfish is perhaps most often associated with the British favorite known as "fish and chips," in which it is flour-dredged and fried. Fillets are also delicious baked, poached, sautéed, or broiled. They can also be cut into cubes for stews or chowders (the firm meat does not easily flake and disintegrate).

Buying tips: Smell fillets for freshness--avoid those that give off a whiff of ammonia. Fillets should be well iced, pure white in color and free of browning and signs of dryness.

Substitutes: Blackfish, catfish, cod, ocean perch, pollock, sea bass, red snapper, tilefish, turbot

Notes: Dogfish is gaining in popularity in the U.S. as a tasty, all-purpose white fish. In the past, American sport fishermen were apt to throw it back into the sea. In Europe, it has always been enjoyed.