a.k.a.: Sardines (young herring), common herring, California herring

Waters:Northern Atlantic and Pacific Oceans

Description (in water): Over one hundred species of this silvery school fish inhabit the cold saltwaters of the world. Most range from 1/4 to 1 lb. Shad, which ranges from 3 to 5 lbs., is the largest member of the herring family.

Description (in market): The dark flesh of fresh herring has a rich, strong flavor, a high fat content, and a soft, fine texture. When cured, herring acquires a firm texture; its flavor alters according to the way it has been cured (smoked, salted, pickled, etc.).

Sold as: Whole; canned and sold as "sardines"; smoked; salted; pickled

Best cooking: You can prepare fresh herring in the same way that you would mackerel and other dark-fleshed, soft-textured, strong-flavored fish. It is particularly good broiled or breaded and pan-fried, and can also be baked, sautéed, or grilled.

Buying tips: When purchasing fresh whole herring, look for unbruised specimens (these delicate fish bruise easily). Make sure they're well iced and fresh-smelling.

In the U.S., it's not always easy to come across fresh whole herring--most of it has been cured. It's important to know the names of the available varieties and the differences between them: kippered herring, or kippers (herring that's been split, salted, dried, and cold-smoked); bloaters (same as kippers but larger and milder in flavor); Bismarck herring (skinless fillets cured in a vinegar-salt-sugar-onion mixture); rollmops (individual Bismarck fillets wrapped around small pickles or onions, preserved in vinegar); Pickled or marinated herring (names used interchangeably for herring that's been marinated in vinegar before it's bottled in a sour cream or wine-based sauce, or herring that's been dry-salted and preserved in brine); schmaltz herring (large, fatty fillets preserved in brine); Matjes herring (reddish fillets cured in a vinegar-sugar-spice mixture).

Substitutes: Sardine, mackerel

Notes: Fresh herring is in season in the U.S. in springtime; you'll find it in specialty fish markets on both the East and West Coasts.