a.k.a.: Northern or Southern kingfish (drum family); king whiting; king mackerel, cavalla

Waters:Atlantic coast from Cape Cod to Florida (Northern and Southern kingfish); Northern Atlantic Ocean, Mediterranean and North Seas (king whiting); Atlantic and Pacific Oceans (king mackerel)

Description (in water): "Kingfish" is one of the most confusing names is fishdom: It can refer either to the white-fleshed fish of the drum or whiting families or to the dark-fleshed mackerel. The Northern kingfish of the drum family is slate gray in color with dark stripes running diagonally across the sides and a white belly; the Southern kingfish is similarly colored yet has no stripes. The king mackerel has a shimmering bluish-green body slashed vertically with black stripes. The king whiting has a slender silver-gray body, large eyes and mouth, and sharp teeth.

Description (in market): The white, fine-textured meat of both Northern and Southern kingfish is low in fat and mild in flavor. (See mackerel and whiting for particular descriptions.)

Sold as: Steaks, fillets, whole (less common)

Best cooking: The low fat content of Northern and Southern kingfish make these excellent choices for poaching, steaming, or pan-frying. Try adding the poached meat to salads. (See mackerel or whiting when using these fish.)

Buying tips: Look for pure white fillets that are free of browning, graying, and signs of dryness. The meat should glisten and smell fresh. (See mackerel or whiting when using these fish.)

Substitutes: Northern and Southern kingfish can be used interchangeably with any member of the drum family--eg. croaker, weakfish, white seabass. (See mackerel or whiting when using these fish.)